T’Gallant Standing Rigging

Pre-T’Gallant Details

Getting ready for the T’Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps. Getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T’gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these are a simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found them quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads. Were I to do it again – I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14″ or 5.5mm.

While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging. It is important to remember however, that once the jib boom is mounted it becomes a significant area of danger for snagging, etc – so extra care handling the model is required from here on out. Mounting the boom requires wrapping the “crupper” – a 2″ line (.25mm) secured with six wraps very similar to the gammoning.

Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom. I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder. The entire thing is chemically blackened then slid over the end of the jib boom.

T’Gallant Shrouds & Stays

As it turns out – there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t’gallant stay. First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the Fully Framed Model (FFM) – the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead. I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM’s chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead. A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I’m going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.

The way around this – is the ‘alternative’ version of rigging laid out in the FFM. This version has the t’gallant stay running through a 9″ block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it. This is the method I’m using.

First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. However, I quickly discovered that even with this span extending the block out from the mast – the line still fouls on the mast cap. So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.

The upper 9″ block (3.5mm at scale) is attached, but I couldn’t strop it to the masthead as I’ve simply run out of room. So instead, I stropped it to the mast just beneath the hounds, which I believe is an adequate and viable replacement. Finally, the upper thimble is fapped via a lanyard to the lower thimble which is attached to the upper preventer stay block as described above.

An overall look confirms that the upper main t’gallant stay definitely looks more “right” extending to the upper masthead instead of the lower masthead. It shows a more parallel consitency.

The fore t’gallant stay runs from the top of the fore t’gallant mast down to the bowsprit and then seizes to the open heart of the fore preventer stay. A little bit unique, but quite interesting. Now, here’s where I’ve deviated from the plans again. Most rigging plans show two sets of thimbles around the end of the bowsprit – a pair together for the spritsail yard lifts, and a set of three together for the t’gallant stay and the t’gallant bowlines. However, there is some evidence that a treble block was used instead of three thimbles on ships during this period. This is the option that I’ve chosen. Five thimbles on the bowsprit looks much too busy to me. I’m pleased with the block / thimble combination.

The rest of the fore t’gallant stay is pretty straightforward; looped around the top of the mast and then runs through the center of the treble block. As mentioned, the end of the line is seized to the open collar of the foremast preventer stay with a lanyard.

The Jib Stay

The jib stay starts on the traveller and is seized to the ring between the starboard side of the shackle and the hook. It then passes through the upper sheave on the starboard side cheek block on the the topmast head. There are a few options as to where the jib stay finishes. Some rigs have it tied above one of the deadeyes, while others have it hooked to the shelf. I chose an eye ring that’s not being used as it ensured a free fall of the line from the upper mast head.